Concrete Coating How 2

Archive for the ‘Types’ Category

Concrete Stains and Sealants

Concrete and brick paints wear off easily because they form a film that blisters, cracks, and peels. This is mostly due to the concrete’s exposure to moisture from the ground. In addition, when the old paint is painted over, more water vapor is trapped, thus speed up the decreasing the paints longevity.

Although epoxy paints are more expensive, they are also more durable. However, epoxy paints are nonporous and therefore, they trap moisture, which leads to peeling. Most painting contractors will guarantee epoxy paints for up to 5 years.

What most people do not understand is that concrete, is similar to wood in that it can be stained. The stain particles deeply penetrate into the pores in the concrete’s surface, creating a translucent colored appearance. In addition, many stains are also UV-resistant.

However, similar to paints, stains also have problems when exposed to moisture. Although stains do not trap water vapor, the stain color will dull quickly because of the efflorescence, lime, and alkalis found in ground water.

In recently years, concrete chemical stains have increased in popularity for coloring concrete floors. One reason for this is that chemical stains enhance the texture of the concrete. Chemical stains use acid, which makes the surface and metallic salts more receptive to the color. However, chemical stained concrete floors require regular maintenance, or else the color will dull or turn dark brown in a few years. To prevent this, acid stained concrete must be waxed or sealed to protect the surface.

Prior to painting or staining concrete, it must first be sealed against water seepage, vapor, and efflorescence, the growth of salt crystals on the surface of the concrete, which is caused by the evaporation of salt-laden water. This can be accomplished in either two separate steps, first sealing and then, painting the concrete or it can be accomplished in one simple step with the use of a combination concrete sealant and stain.

Combination sealant/ paint or stain products provide deep-penetration, permanent waterproofing, as the pigmented stain penetrates the concrete surface. These new products are quick and simple to apply, and they cut the work time by almost half. These color sealants are easy to applied with a hand-pump garden sprayer or a roller.

Many of these color sealants contains UV-resistant pigmented stains, which provides extra protection and durability. In addition, they also contain acrylic resins that lock in the color as it provides a satin finish on the surface.

Unlike acid stains, which are limited to various shades of brown, black, and blue-green, concrete stain sealants are available in an unlimited range of colors. In addition, colors can be combined by applying a second application of a different color, or overlapping the two colors creating in essence a third color, or the two colors can simply be mixed together prior to application. Concrete sealers are also available in colorless and matte/flat finish as well as satin, semi-gloss, and high gloss sheen.

Color sealants have to thoroughly dry for at least three to four days prior to any wax or clear coating can be applied. This permits the coatings to adhere better to color sealant and this also eliminates any moisture or efflorescence pushing from below. Efflorescence is the growth of salt crystals caused by evaporation of salt-laden water.

Another benefit of color sealants is that they permanently waterproof the concrete, protecting it against water damage. It is important to understand, that to waterproof, two to three applications of the sealer is required. In addition, the sealant cannot waterproof materials that have extremely large pores such as items like split face blocks, cinder blocks, or old masonry, which has already deteriorated due to extensive water seepage.

Color sealants protect and enhance concrete and masonry, increasing its longevity as well as its durability.

Decorative cuts and sandblasted patterns can be achieved with stencils to enhance the appearance and look of stained concrete surfaces. However, when you sandblast or make your cuts will depend on the desired appearance you are trying to achieve.

To achieve an overall stain finish with as even of a color as possible, then you will need to cut lines and patterns after you have complete the staining process. This is because stains penetrate differently around indentations. If the pattern has a color change then you will need to cut the lines first in order to create a barrier. However, if the sawed joints are to be grouted, then you need to complete the staining and sealing processes before your grout to prevent the grout form adhering to any stain.

To lay out your pattern lines use a pencil or chalk and never use color chalk, as it is more difficult to remove and do not adhere lines to the concrete surface using clear fixative sprays. To cut line, use either a grinder or a hand-held saw that has a table that ride against guides. Another excellent choice are dry-cutting diamond blades, which cause minimum damage to the edge of the cut. In addition, make sure that you use a dust-collection device, which attaches to grinder/ saw so that it can capture the majority of the concrete dust. Also, make sure that you are wearing safety eyewear, and respirator.

If you are going to cut patterns before staining, make sure that you make your cuts immediately before you clean the surface before preparation for the stain. The reason for this is that concrete sawing dust contains free lime, which can adhere to the surface of the concrete and cause distortions in the color of the stain color. If you make your cuts after staining, then make them after you have applied the first coat of sealer.

Stencils will also create a dramatic effect to the surface after staining, followed by sandblasting to reveal plain or colored concrete in sections not covered by the stencils. Generally, these stencils are made from either plastic or paper. To improve stencil adhesion, it is recommended to apply one coat of sealer before sandblasting.

Concrete stamps press patterns that are either decorative or natural into wet concrete. This adds uniqueness to any patio, driveway, walkway, or plaza. Concrete stamps in combination with various finishing techniques can create the illusion of polished, aged cobblestones, brickwork, flagstaff stones, slate tile, marble, granite, wood, or any natural surface. Concrete stamps can even be used for interior floors.

Color can be added to the concrete prior to pouring or the concrete stamps can be used along with concrete stains, which produce multicolored, translucent surfaces. Staining produces a more realistically shading effect of natural stones. Concrete stains do not fade or peel as they interact chemically with the concrete. Whether you add the color to the concrete or if you use a stain, you have to apply a final coating or sealer to protect the surface.

Bond-breaking powder is used to keeps the stamps and other tools from sticking to the wet concrete surface. In addition, the release powder also adds a naturally weathered look, which enhances the depth, pattern, and color, of the concrete producing a very attractive finish.

You can create the look of concrete stamps on existing cement patio, porch, driveway, and walkway by having these resurfaced and using a cement stencil grade topping.

In this procedure, the new concrete surface is spread, then an adhesive stencil is laid down. Color is applied. When the stencil is removed, the areas between the stencils resemble grout lines between brick, stone, or tile. Stenciling produces a faux-natural finish for a lot less than pulling up the old concrete and pouring new concrete.

Concrete stamps are available in a variety of different sizes and patterns. In addition, custom designed stamps can also be made. Concrete stamps offer an economical alternative to natural stone.

Acrylic concrete coatings are designed so that they penetrate deeply into the concrete surface. The low sheen matte finish of the acrylic coating offers excellent slip resistance for floors as it helps conceal surface defects. In addition, acrylic coatings also impede spalling and substrate deterioration.

They can be used on stucco, concrete floors, driveways, patios, block, brick, and steps. It can be used as an interior and exterior coating on vertical as well as horizontal concrete surfaces. When mixed with Xylene, acrylic coatings can be used as a concrete stain.

When applying acrylic coatings, the surface has to be prepared. Uncoated concrete has to be fully cured and clean, dry and free of dirt, oil, grease, and other foreign particles, which could obstruct the penetration and adhesion of the coating. For previously, coated concrete, all oil, grease, and other foreign matter, has to be removed. The best way to do this is by scrubbing the surface with a cleaner and grease emulsifier, making sure to rinse well with clean water and then allowing the concrete to dry. However, previously coated surfaces should be testes with the acrylic coating to determine if the coatings are compatible and that the old finish will not lift. Acrylic coatings can be applied using a low-pressure airless sprayer, roller, or brush. If you want to use the acrylic coating as a stain, then it needs to be reduced 25% to 35% with xylene, until the desired transparency is reached. Apply evenly and avoid overlapping. For a solid color finish, apply a single acrylic coat reduced 25% with xylene, allowing the first coat to dry approximately two hours before applying a second full strength coat of acrylic.

Important: Always test previously coated surfaces to determine coating compatibility. Do Not Use around any open flame. Extinguish all pilot lights. Do not apply in direct sunlight or on hot surfaces. This could cause gas blisters. If acid etching, always add acid to water. Always wear protective clothing, boots, gloves, and goggles. Apply in thin coats to avoid solvent entrapment.

Garage floors don’t have to remain dual and gray. Epoxy garage coatings are easy to apply, bond to cement floors and dry to a ceramic-like finish. Epoxy is made from a two-component liquid emulsion that when combined can be used as sealant and protective finish. Epoxy garage coatings are a perfectly way to beautify and protect your garage floors.

Epoxy garage floor coatings have become a popular means for homeowners to improve their home aesthetically as well as financially. Many garages are being used for other purposes such as workshops, play areas, craft rooms, as well as home offices, many homeowners finishing their garage floors with epoxy coatings, which protect the floors from oil, dirt, water, and grease. Epoxy coatings are also perfect alternatives for laundry rooms, basements, workshops, and porches.

Some garage coatings claim that they are more durable than concrete, while some of these claims can be argued, it is true that many concrete coatings will extending the life of concrete garage floor and basement flooring. In addition, many products are easy enough for the homeowners to do themselves, while other more decorative coatings, the homeowner may wish to hire a professional to apply. There are countless products, which can be either ordered online or purchased at a local home improvement store which are self-priming, quick dry and have a reduced amount of odor.

Most average size garage floors can be completed in a weekend. The first step is to thoroughly clean the concrete floor of greases, then the floor needs to be etched, or roughed up to allow the epoxy to bond with the concrete. Once the floor has been etched, then any holes or cracks should be patched.

Depending on the desired finish you want, the base coat may all that you wish to apply. However, if you want more or a decorative finish, then you can add color chips followed with one or two topcoats, resulting in a beautiful finish that is tough, durable and adds value to your home.