Concrete Coating How 2

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Three years ago, my dearest friend decided to stencil the floor of her sunroom instead of laying ceramic tiles and asked if I would help her in this project.

Stencils can be any number of commercially produced patterns, as well as custom made stencils which incorporate corner accents, company logos, or family crests, monograms and literally anything the individual wants. However, before you begin, there are several facts you need to know about stenciling. First, stencils can be used on both new concrete and existing concrete. Second, stenciling uses what is known as a blocking technique, allowing for a one-step application of various colors to borders and fields. Third, a very high quality paper stencil is just as suitable for creating decorative effects on concrete as a plastic stencil and lastly, the appropriate applications includes cast-in-place, overlayment, sandblasting, and vertical applications.

When stenciling a new concrete pour, you must take precaution to ensure the stencil is not initially applied too deeply. Another critical issue is the appropriate time to remove the stencil. Removing it too soon when the material is still sticky can result in it not coming out clean and possible breakage of stones whereas, removing it too late can result in a difficult removal.

The following steps should be followed when using stencils on existing concrete:

1.To avoid getting spray on surrounding surfaces, securely tape these areas. 2.Lay out the stencils on concrete. 3.Carefully spray a thin layer of the decorative color coating. 4.After the first coating has dried, or according to the manufacture’s instructions, apply the desired finish to the decorative coating. 5.Carefully remove stencils. 6.Apply sealer

Templates:

For custom templates, the price will vary depending on their design, size and if they are paper or vinyl. Vinyl templates are often a one-time use, whereas paper templates can often be used more than once depending on the pattern and type of sandblasting material and air pressure, which is used in the process.

Templates can be used in either one or two methods. The first method the templates are applied and sandblasted after the floor has been stained and sealed. After the template has been sandblasted and removed, then the design can be left either natural or stained. If the design is to be stained then the floor must be cleaned again.

After the concrete floor has been stained and prior to any sealant being applied, vinyl templates can be are applied to the floor. Then using a gel acid the stain is removed. If the design area is to be stained in another color, then the vinyl templates remains in place as the stain is applied.

Stencil Concrete:

When stenciling concrete, all forms must be set square in order to keep the patterns aligned. After the concrete is poured, its surface is bull floated then edged. The next step is to place stencil borders and adhered them to the surface. The field pattern is then arranged and then placed on the surface. To save time, precut all stencils prior to pouring the concrete. To adhere the stencil to the concrete you can use a speed trowel, stencil roller, or Fresno.

Next, following the manufacture’s instructions, dry shake color hardener over the slab. Generally, it will be necessary to apply two applications to achieve color. It is necessary to use the manufacture’s recommended amount of color in order to achieve proper surface abrasion, and wear resistance as well as the desire color. Using a bull float, float the color into the slab with a trowel.

After the color has been floated into the concrete, the following step is to apply the release agent over the surface. Again, it is vital to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. As soon as the concrete loses its ability to adhere to the stencil, the concrete will simply flake from the stencil when it was lifted. Next, remove the remaining chips by rinsing the slab with water. Muriatic acid is then used to remove the release agent, once this has been accomplished the concrete slab then most be allowed to dry completely before applying at least two coats of sealant.

The only required maintenance is to clean and reseal the surface approximately every 2 to 3 years depending on how heavy the traffic.

How to apply stencils to existing concrete:

Applying stencils to existing concrete can be accomplished in several means, troweled down, spray down, and adhesive stencil. We will take a brief look at each of these methods.

Troweled Down Application:

Once the surface preparation has been completed, a base coat is then troweled or squeegee onto the surface of the concrete, the length and width of the stencil. The stencil will then adhered to the base coat. Repeat this step until the entire stencil has been laid. Once the entire stencil is in place, then a thin topcoat of approximately 1/8? can then be troweled over the stencil.

When applying the release agent there are two very important facts you must keep in mind. First, you cannot get any of the release agent on the base coat, and second you have to keep in pace with the individual troweling on the topcoat be able to texture the material this is due to the quick set time of the top coat.

Carefully remove the stencils, and apply the sealant according to the overlay manufacturer’s instructions.

Spray Application:

With this method, the entire base coast is applied to the surface and allowed to dry completely once the surface preparations have been completed. The stencil is laid with the memory side down, so that the stencil does not roll up. Once you have the first piece of stencil in place on the surface, you can use tape to hold the stencils together. If you need to weight down the stencils further, a thin base coat can be sprayed on these areas. Repeat this process until the entire stencil has been laid down on the surface. Spray the topcoat over the stencil. Once the overlay can chip free from the stencil, remove all of the stencils. The next step is to clean away all the overlay chips, this can to done with the use of a leaf blower. After all the chips have been removed, the overlay can be sealed. Ensure that you follow the manufacture’s instructions for the overlay on how to apply the sealant.

Adhesive Stencil Application:

Properly prepare the concrete surface, then apply the entire base coat and allowed it to dry. Carefully place the adhesive stencils onto the surface. Once all the stencils have been applied to the entire slab, apply the topcoat. Remove the stencils as soon as possible. If you leave them in place too long then they will be difficult to remove. Clean away, all of the overlay chips, and then seal the concrete by following the overlay’s manufacture’s instructions.

Many do-it-yourself shows will tell you not to use any primers or sealers on the surface prior to applying an epoxy coat. However, countless professionals do use an epoxy primer on cement floors even when they prepare the floor by shot blasting. Most homeowners do not use a primer under a 100% solids floor epoxy coating, with little or not problems. Yet, the use of a proper primer will provide insurance against any moisture that may be trapped within the concrete.

Primers server several purposes, first, they soak into the cement, providing a well-adhered surface for the epoxy to adhere. Second, primers seal and fill in small cracks and holes in the surface where air could be released into the thicker floor epoxy. This is known as outgassing and is a very common problem the epoxy is applied when temperatures are below the recommended range or when the epoxy is applied in direct sunlight. In addition, other problems can occur such as fisheyes, which is when silicone, oil, or grease, were still on the floor when the epoxy was applied and create the illusion of fisheyes embedded in the epoxy. Primers will block these occurrences. However, the use of a primer does not mean you can omit, properly preparing and cleaning the concrete surface.

After you have applied the primer, you must wait approximately 1 day for the primer to properly dry before applying the epoxy.

Growing up in the south, many people paint the wooden slants of their front porches, however, concrete was left dull and gray. It wasn’t until five years ago that I saw a painted concrete floor. It was wonderful. Painting is an inexpensive solution for a floor, which will last a long time with normal use. The following is a step-by-step method of this money-saving technique. However, do not expect to complete this project in one day.

1.For interior floors, check to see if the concrete is damp, if they are or if there are puddles of water you will need to contact a professional who can correct your water seepage problem. Once this has been corrected, let the concrete thoroughly dry out before painting. This will take a long time, depending on the size and how server the seepage problem was.

2.Thoroughly clean the concrete, removing any grease, old paint, and dirt. Paint will not adhere to grease, oil, dirt, and old paint will eventually flake and peel. To remove oil and grease, spread cat litter on the spills to absorb the oil, then scrub the area with Goof Off, or another solvent, followed by a scrubbing with a mixture of TSP. Make sure to thoroughly rinse several times, until the mop is clean. You will have to let the floor dry out for at least three days.

3.Using a hand sander and 80-grit sandpaper, sand off any old paint, glue, or residue. Vacuum up dust then go over the floor with a tack cloth.

4.Repair any crack that are larger than ? in addition to any holes or spalled areas with Cement Fixall and allow it to dry completely.

5.Apply two coats of Kilz primer and stain blocker, allowing it to dry completely between coats.

6.You can use either a roller or a paint compressor to apply the paint. Which method you choose depends on the look you are trying to achieve. Apply two coats of a high quality latex flat paint. The better the quality of paint, the longer it will last.

7.Be creative! You can use your imagination and paint anything from a faux rug, to a fishpond. Allow your creation to completely dry before you walk on it or set furniture on it.

8.To add more protection, apply two coats of a sealer, using a roller. You must wear a respirator mask. Allow this to dry.

9.Enjoy your unique and beautiful concrete floor!

Concrete flooring does not have to stay dull and gray with more than a thousand options available from stains, coatings, and even painting on faux rugs or creating a mural of a fish pond.

When coating indoor or outdoor concrete floors the same preparations are required. However, concrete surfaces, which are located outdoors do require extra work and more frequent maintenance.

Preparing a concrete floor:

The first step is to check for water seepage. To determine if the floor has been sealed, simply taping a piece of plastic sheeting onto the concrete flooring, then sealing the edges firmly with duct tape and leave it for about 24 hours. If you peel back the plastic and discover moisture underneath, the floor has not been sealed. To block moister, there are several permanent penetrating concrete sealers for existing concrete on grade or below grade.

Important note: It takes concrete a long time to dry. Therefore, you must wait until it is completely dry before painting. In addition, exterior concrete surfaces should have a natural runoff slope to ensure that water doesn’t collect on the surface. Any concrete surface that remains wet all the time is not suitable for decoration.

After the concrete has been sealed, it has to be thoroughly cleaned. Dirt and grease will act as barriers to the paint. Once method for removing grease is to cover grease spills with cat litter so that they can be absorbed, hen sweep up the cat litter and use Goof Off to remove the remaining grease. Finish cleaning the surface with a mixture of TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) in a bucket, and scrub the floor, make sure to rinse several times to remove all of the cleaner. Wait approximately three days for the floor to dry.

Other debris must also be removed, including any old paint or glue residue from a previous carpet. These can be sanded using 80-grit sandpaper. The surface has to be completely clean of all debris and all cracks and holes need to be repaired in the surface prior to coating.

Once the concrete has properly been prepared, the next step is to apply two coats of primer such as Kilz primer and stain blocker. Make sure that you let the primer dry between coats. After the second coat has thoroughly dried, roll or using a compressor, spray on two coats of your choice of latex flat paint, concrete stain, or coating. The only rule is to let your imagination go.

Before applying any sealant or coating to concreter, you first must determine if the concrete floor has been sealed. To determine if the floor has been sealed, simply taping a piece of plastic sheeting onto the concrete flooring, then sealing the edges firmly with duct tape and leave it for about 24 hours. If you peel back the plastic and discover moisture underneath, the floor has not been sealed.

Newly constructed homes should have been properly insulated against dampness when constructed due to recent building codes. However, many older homes may have been constructed prior to the establishment of building codes requiring the installation of a vapor barrier under the concrete to block moisture. To block moister, there are several permanent penetrating concrete sealers for existing concrete on grade or below grade. If you have any questions concerning any of these products, there should be a toll-free technical support number to call. The number should be located on the container, usually on the back of the package.

Once you have decided weather or not the floor has been properly sealed, your next step is to prepare the surface for the staining and or coating. Using a wire brush, you can scrub away any stubborn stains. If the concrete is less than a year old, then the surface will require cleaning and sealing. However, if the concrete is older, then the surface will require cleaning, as well as repairing of any cracks, unless you wish to incorporate the cracks into the pattern you’ve chosen.

Once you have cleaned and repaired any cracks, the next step is to prime the surface. Once the primer has completely dry, then color can be applied. To reduce slashing, you may want to edge around the perimeter of the concrete slab using a paintbrush. Once you have painted the perimeter, then by using a roller will speed up the task of painting the rest of the slab. The average drying time is approximately four hours therefore, it is necessary that you ensure that no one walks across the concrete flooring until the paint has completely dried. Make sure that you read and understand the manufacturer’s directions for drying times and any other directions you may need to be aware.

If your concrete is cracked, and has holes, then resurfacing is a far less expensive option than pouring new concrete. When resurfacing any concrete, you first want to remove any loose concrete with a hammer, masonry chisel, and steel bristled brush. If you are resurfacing a large area such as a driveway, garage, or patio, then you will need to mix a thin slurry mixture of the resurfacer, then pour the mix onto the concrete, and spread the resurfacer over the surface. Before the first coat dries, you will need to mix a thicker batch and apply it over the first wet coat. Allow the surface to cure for at least 24 hours. Concrete is an extremely durable surface, however it can be damaged by rain. For this reason, most concrete slabs have joints in them called control or score joints, which help to control the cracking which is unavoidable. This happens when rain get into these cracks and over time washes away the soil underneath the slab in areas. The solution is to repair cracks as they occur by filling them with a concrete repair caulk.

To begin repairing the cracks, first clean out the crack using a putty knife or large screwdriver. Next, you want to clean the area with a wire brush, and then clean away all debris with a broom or hard brush.

When opening the caulk tube, you want to cut a fairly wide tip and then apply the caulk to the crack, filling the crack from one end to the other. Next, smooth the caulk out using your fingertip. Caulk is prone to shrinking. Therefore, you will have to apply a second coat once the first coat has dried.